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Old 07-22-2012, 07:12 PM   #1
new2honda
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Unhappy Bought a new honda. B20B swap. having idle problems

So I bought my first built honda. Its a 1990 honda hatch. Has a b20b engine what i believe is a p75 ecm and a LS trans. The car runs and drives but don't idle right. dies at stop signs and just drives like crap. At first it was only some days but now its all the time.

So here is what I have done.
Cleaned iacv -twice
Cleaned and adjusted fast idle valve -twice
Cleaned throttle body and did a tune up.

It has a check engine light on. here is the flash sequence.... 3 short blinks...pause...7 short blinks...pause...1 long blink..followed by 4 short blinks. I dont know if im reading them right but i think its a map sensor code a tps sensor code and a iacv code. What are the chances of all 3 of those going out? Wiring problem? please help. Thanks guys
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Old 07-23-2012, 05:54 AM   #2
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Has the check engine light been on since you bought the car? Usually cleaning the IAC will take care of that CEL. You reset the ECM after cleaning the IAC and it still throwing the code?

I guess it is possible to have the TPS and MAP go bad at the same time. Could have been damaged during the swap who knows?

I would double check that you don't have a vaccuum leak somewhere.
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Old 07-23-2012, 08:43 AM   #3
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When I bought the car the cel was not on. The car drove fine. next day after buying the car the cel came on and started to not idle right. then it would go on and off only when the cel was on it would act up. I cleaned the iacv and fast idle and tried reseting the computer by disconnecting the negative for 1-2 mins then re-connecting nothing changed. The only thing i noticed is the Iacv does not have the plate on the bottom of it for the 2 hoses to connect to. the fast idle has coolant running thru it but the iacv does not. (fast idle is located on bottom of the throttle body) Thank you for your response I hope you can help
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Old 07-23-2012, 04:10 PM   #4
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The car could have had the issues when you bought it. Previous owner may have reset the ECM right before selling it. After a reset you can USUALLY drive 50 miles or so before it comes back on. This is why you can't get an emissions test done if they hook up the CEL device and it shows that you recently reset the ECM. Somewhat puzzled that even after the reset nothing changed.
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Old 07-23-2012, 07:45 PM   #5
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Yeah I took out the ecm fuse and let it sit for 5 mins. Started it back up 30 seconds the cel was back on and doing the same thing. Today it went into default mode where it wont let you rev over 2,500 rpm. Reset the ecm and it fixed that but still having the idle issue. aside from just replacing parts I dont know what to do.
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Old 07-23-2012, 10:52 PM   #6
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post pictures of your engine
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im searching for a FO' DO' FO' MO' HOE'
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Old 07-24-2012, 02:03 AM   #7
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Im thinking maybe they uded the b20 manifold and not.the b18a1 mani.. But id have to see your engine to be sure.. If not that.you have a hose somewhere that is holy
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Old 07-24-2012, 01:10 PM   #8
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Well I tried to upload the pictures.. I could not. Tried many times can't figure it out. Says upload failed.
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Old 07-24-2012, 01:29 PM   #9
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I uploaded the pictures to photo bucket. Here is the link. Let me know if you need a picture of anything else. Thanks

http://s1058.photobucket.com/albums/t402/MB0UGIE/
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Old 07-25-2012, 04:52 PM   #10
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Old 07-25-2012, 05:01 PM   #11
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who did your engine harness wiring? What about the wiring to use the p75 ecu? The ecu is a OBD1 5spd p75 ecu right?

one that I hate seeing in a Ef is a obd2 distributor lol.
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Old 07-31-2014, 10:27 AM   #12
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As Hearthstone gains steam, more and more new players are entering the scene, and seeking out guides on how to get started. This resource is meant to provide an introduction to the game, as well as answer many common questions novice players may have about Hearthstone.

This guide will help players grasp the foundational basics of Hearthstone, and then move on to some more advanced topics that will help players climb the ladder quickly and efficiently.
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Old 10-08-2014, 12:06 AM   #13
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hey all. i just completed my b20 swap into 97 hatch and thought i would put up how much everything costed me.

2001 b20z with 15 miles- $850
click here investments

1998 ls tranny, intake manifold, starter, alt, distributor,ECU, axles shift linkage, and other misc bolts needed for swap - 400$

Exedy racing clutch and pressure plate - $211 shipped

ls throttle cable - $17

tune up parts, gaskets ETC 30$

b16 rear bracket - $30

b16 drivers side bracket - $45

oil, filter and coolant - 12$

upper and lower rad hoses - 9$


how to make money fast

tranny fluid 13$

Total: $1,617.00 which is not bad for having a brand new motor with only 15 miles on it and all items replaced including a clutch.
collected

Last edited by Nur Hilmi; 10-12-2014 at 10:58 AM.
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