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Old 04-22-2010, 05:17 PM   #1
92eg9
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Question rough idle/battery light

sup guys, i have a couple of questions and i figured someone in here would be able to help. i have a 92 eg with a b18b1 engine on it. i recently changed the spark plugs and wires and ever since the car has been doing some weird shit on the road.
first, when i come to a complete stop the car goes up and down on the idle, sometimes it feels like its going to turn off. as far as the idle goes it doesnt go past say 500 rpms before going low but its fucking annoying. sometimes my battery light comes on and stays there for a while only to go away, and finally the car JUST TURNS OFF when im on the road.
i dont know how to go about fixing this but im thinking i gotta change the dizzy cap and alternator and maybe even the battery, what do you think? im trying to look for a good name brand dizzy cap (maybe this http://inlinefour.com/msdpowcaprot.html ) but i have no idea where i can get a good alternator. any help would be great!!!
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Old 04-22-2010, 05:45 PM   #2
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I would think it is either your alternator or your battery, that is why you battery light comes on and thats why it would just die
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Old 04-22-2010, 06:05 PM   #3
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change ur spark plugs...may be the wrong ones...they probly gave u spark plugs for the original engine instead of for the b18..which is spark plugs for an integra...understand??
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Old 04-22-2010, 11:33 PM   #4
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did you gap the plugs before putting them in?, and do you have a dvom(digital volt ohm meter)?? if not find someone that does, then check the voltage at the battery, then the alternator.
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Old 04-23-2010, 03:25 PM   #5
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the sparkplugs are the ones for the b18b1 and yes i did gap them. how ever i did not torque renched them, i just did it by hand. i got the battery tested and it came back good. as far as the dvom i dont have one, but i might be able to get one since a friend of mine works at advance auto. if i do get it (dvom) what is that going to tell me or what should i look for when testing??
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Old 04-24-2010, 02:35 PM   #6
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I agree with Terryn, the car cutting off sounds like an alternator problem. I think auto parts stores can check your alternator in addition to the battery, so yo may take you car back to where you got the battery tested and have them take a look.
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Old 04-24-2010, 08:48 PM   #7
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the dvom is to test your alt output, otherwise you could just bring it to advance, there is another way to test the alternator.....on the opposite side of the alternator of the pulley with the car running, stick a wrench on it it, if it stays then it is producing the magnetic field required to produce voltage.
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Old 04-29-2010, 11:05 AM   #8
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alright so the alternator should be checked or changed, im trying to build the motor step by step, is there any special alternator i should get now that i need one or should i just get the oem one. so how about the idle? would the alternator change any of that?? and is the distributor cap from the link on the first post a good choice? also i forgot to mention that my car is obd1, would the alternator or distributor have to be different than stock?

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Old 04-29-2010, 11:36 AM   #9
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altrenator will affect idle if it's advanced
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Old 04-29-2010, 03:33 PM   #10
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If your tryna build the motor...just get a new alternator and new other stuff...and if your goin for performance, might as well get performance motor parts and bolt ons instead of wasting money on something youll change out in a few months.. good luck with build
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Old 04-29-2010, 05:38 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F22bluez View Post
altrenator will affect idle if it's advanced
what how do you advance the alternator it is either tight or its not???????
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Old 04-30-2010, 05:22 AM   #12
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there is no need to upgrade an alternator. you stock one will work fine unless you have a huge stereo system.

an ignition upgrade would depend on what you overall goals are. if you are really gonna sink a lot of money into the motor i would get a msd external coil and dizzy.

if your current dizzy is bad, now is a good time to upgrade to that msd one you posted. but do you really need it... probably not. i'm running a t3 turbo with upgraded wires and plugs and a stock dizzy.

just be aware of what it says at the bottom: some MSD dizzys require use of the MSD 8.5mm wires, so if you just got a new set and they don't work with the new dizzy, you are gonna be buying another set.
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Old 04-30-2010, 10:06 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by terrynfischer View Post
what how do you advance the alternator it is either tight or its not???????
omg i'm retarded lol, don"t know why but i was thinking about the dizzy lol
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Old 04-30-2010, 12:51 PM   #14
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LMAO its all good man Ill keep ya n check
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Old 04-30-2010, 09:01 PM   #15
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well since i already changed the wires to 8.5mm i should change the dizzy anyways. so stock alternator will work right? and one more thing, i got the check engine on at all times, apparently because my set up does not use an oxygen censor and my ecu is obd1, so if i get a new set of headers put in should it help me or would it just turn the light off?? which i really dont care if its on or off.
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Old 05-01-2010, 11:48 PM   #16
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If you get a new header, make sure it has a spot for an o2 sensor. a bad o2 sensor or missing o2 sensor will probably affect your gas mileage. a muffler shop can easily weld in a bung if you need one.
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Old 05-04-2010, 10:14 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SweetHonda24 View Post
If you get a new header, make sure it has a spot for an o2 sensor. a bad o2 sensor or missing o2 sensor will DEFFINATELY affect your gas mileage. a muffler shop can easily weld in a bung if you need one.
FIXED LOL
unless you get an OBD1 ECU and then u will only use one of the o2 sensors
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